Boston Redux
Friday, August 4th, 2006Since our only visits to Boston had occurred during the cold winter, we convinced the Fitzes to show us around “America’s Walking City” when it is actually warm enough to walk around comfortably. Actually, it was hot enough that we were really just walking around in a DIFFERENT state of discomfort.
We left Thursday night and crashed for the night at Mike’s parents who are always most accommodating. Friday morning we drove into town and parked the car at the hotel and dropped off our bags and left to explore. After our last trip my dad scalded me somewhat for going to Boston and not eating oyster stew. I thought that lobsters and chowder (lawbstahs and chowdah) was the canonical Boston food, but dad seemed to feel that oyster stew was the REAL local delicacy. So I decided to humor my old man and requested a return trip to Union Oyster House.
I was a little bit iffy about oyster stew. I generally like shellfish as long as they are of the “cooked” variety, but I had once had an oyster po’boy at Hoopers and while I didn’t dislike it, I thought the fried oysters just tasted too much like seawater, and I didn’t much care for the texture either.
Enter Oyster Stew:
Seems pretty simple. The broth is buttery with a hint of sherry. In the broth are lots of oysters. I liked the oysters here. Perhaps they were different/better oysters, or perhaps its just that after soaking in a stew, they become much more tender and lose some of the marine flavor. I also had a bit of X’s crab cake. Very good.
After lunch we hiked to the Museum of Science to catch our Duck Tour. The Duck Tour is conducted in a refurb’ed WWII-era DUKW — an amphibious truck. Guides with colorful characters take you around town and then barrel down a ramp into the Charles River for a bit of sightseeing from the water. Our guide Tim Burr posed as an eccentric Canadian lumberjack packing a toy chainsaw which he occasionally uses as a pointing device.
Here’s a green Duck:
And the 2004 Red Sox World Series Duck:
After the tour, we went back to the hotel where we could now check in. We napped and relaxed for a couple of hours and discussed our plans for the evening and the next couple of days. For the evening, we decided to go to Fajitas And ‘Ritas for dinner and then perhaps to see The Taming Of The Shrew in Boston Gardens or over to Landsdowne Ave if the Sox were winning to enjoy the festive atmosphere.
As we were walking to dinner, a heavy storm rolled in. We had to run the last block to avoid getting soaked in the sudden deluge. The food was good. Great margaritas, and the fajitas and quesadillas weren’t bad either! While at the restaurant waiting out the storm, we saw that the Sox game was on rain delay and potentially cancelled, so we quickly scratched the Landsdowne plan out of concern that the bars would be crowded with despondent baseball fans. After the rain stopped, we walked to the Gardens to find that the play was cancelled. We walked back to Filene’s Basement to find that it and most neighboring stores were closed, so we just headed back to the hotel to get some sleep.
We got up early Saturday morning in order to catch a tour of Fenway. Tours stop departing 2 hours before a game, and there was a game in the afternoon so we thought we only had until 11. We got into the 10:00 tour and learned it was the last one! We lucked out. When we checked in at about 9:30, there only seemed to be about 10 people waiting around. By the time the tour departed, I’d estimate close to 200 were onboard!
They split us into 2 groups. Mary had a sense that the female guide would quickly become obnoxious, so we worked to join the male guide’s group. It’s a good tour for $12 and I’d recommend doing it. The guides are full of facts about the stadium and they take you around to various parts of the stands. It does not include walking on the field or going into the manual scoreboard.
Fenway is a neat place, one that makes me AGAIN really want to like baseball. They have these awesome table seats over right field that, while far from the infield, offer a commanding view of the field and pick up some nice breezes. The entire stadium crackles with history and has lots of fascinating stories. The stands are consistently packed by people who came to Fenway with their grandparents and are now bringing their own grandchildren along. It makes you really want to see a baseball game. Until you remember…its baseball. The thrill wears off quickly. It hits you that probably 10 really awesome things happened at Fenway. Over 94 years. Probably 10000 games have been played there and 9990 of them were pretty much unremarkable. That’s baseball.
Did get some nice pics, though.
The retired numbers. 42 is blue because it is Jackie Robinson’s number, retired by all of MLB.
And the Green Monster:
After the tour we hit up the Boston Beerworks on Landsdowne where I had previously been told about their blueberry beer which is served with blueberries floating in it. It was tasty, although it seems like NJ blueberries are much sweeter than New England ones, and the bitterness of the berries was a little offputting. The girls got a sampler which included some interesting watermelon beer along with a nice blonde and a wheat beer.
Next we headed to Newbury Street which is a posh shopping district ranging from one of those whacky Bang & Olufsen stores where they don’t even seem to have a point-of-sale to overpriced “consignment shops” where they sell used clothes at amazing profits. Also of note, some store that is basically Build-A-Bag Workshop where grown women get to make “custom” handbags by choosing an off-the-shelf shape and an off-the-shelf fabric and then wait 3 weeks for it to be made. Bizarre! We also saw a cow painted with chili peppers.
On Newbury we ate lunch at a pizza joint called Upper Crust which has some good thin crust pizza and is not too expensive. I had an interesting experience in the solo bathroom where I must have forgot to lock the door, as a woman walked in and not realizing it was a one-man toilet fully entered the room and had a complete conversation with me about the whereabouts of the ladies’ room before realizing what was going on. Fortunately, I had not yet dropped my drawers!
I did find a small Le Creuset pot in orange. It was 30% off. The downside is that even a smal cast iron pot can be rather heavy.
We walked down to the end of Newbury and then, since it was hot, and since we are lazy, and since we had a day pass for the T, we rode the T back to the top of Newbury and got some ice cream before going back to the hotel.
Now X has a friend named Matt who lives in Boston. We try to catch up with each other whenever we are in the same area, but we often plan poorly and it doesn’t work so well. For instance, we all happened to be going to the same ball game in Baltimore, but it took us awhile to pick up our tickets from the broker and then get to the stadium, so we basically said “hello” and then ran off to the game.
This time it worked out fairly well. Matt suggested dinner at a little restauarant called Silvertone, and Mary had planned out a decent route of barhopping. After a nap and a shower, we headed off to Silvertone.
Silvertone is a nice little restaurant that has a reputation for a great wine value, good comfort food, and good prices. The dining room is small, so we had to wait for about an hour for a table big enough for 5 to open up. No matter, we hung out at the bar with the affable bartenders, one of whom I believe was the owner. The food was great. X’s steak tips were tender and juicy and the meatloaf was very tasty.
Next stop was a bar called The 21st Amendment. It was a little dive-bar type place. There wasn’t anything really spectacular about it, but the beer was cold and it wasn’t crowded. After The 21st Amendment, we walked to Quincy Market to a bizarre Asian-themed restaurant called Singapore.
By day, Singapore appears to be a functioning Asian restaurant. By night, it’s a crowded and bizarre bar fueled by a guy selling skewers of teriyaki chicken and something they call the Scorpion Bowl, which has to be seen to be believed.
This large noodle bowl is filled to the brim with a pineapple potent potable. Unlike Monkey Boys at PSU, they will not sell them to solo acts…you have to have a partner. Of course once it’s in your hand, you don’t have to share :-). I feel bad for the waitresses that have to carry the heavy earthen bowls through the packed frat-party atmosphere, but its a good drink and packs a decent punch.
It has been YEARS since I have been to a crowded meat-market bar like that. I generally dislike that atmosphere but it was a fun change of pace. It’s easier to enjoy when you can relax knowing you don’t have to drive home or get up to go anywhere the next day, which is often not the case.
After draining our Scorpion Bowls and a skewer of chicken, we went to the final stop, Dick’s Last Resort. This was on our NYE agenda until we learned that it had moved to Faneuil Hall. The “theme” is supposed to be grouchy waiters, but they seemed normal to me. The perception seems to be that this theme has been mostly abandoned since the move to such a high-profile location. We had a few drinks here, but everyone was getting tired. It was a nice quiet place to rest and the patio gave us a nice vew of drunken bachelor(ette) partiers staggering by and harassing the painted cows and the street violinist.
Heading back, we didn’t feel like walking and we knew that a taxi wouldn’t cost much. The trick was either finding a van, or a driver willing to risk overloading his car. There was a ton of taxis near the market, so X walked up to 5 or 6 of them and found someone to take us all. We dropped Matt off at his car and returned to the hotel and crashed.
Sunday morning we slept late. We didn’t have any real plans other than trying ot hit Harold’s on the way home. We went to Durgin Park for lunch, another restaurant that claims to be Very Old with a slogan along the lines of “Your grandfather and your great-grandfather ate here.” They specialize in the local Yankee Cooking with schrod, lobster, clam chowder, pot roast, corn bread an Indian pudding all on the board. I had the pot roast, which was great. I also decided I should have a taste of the legendary Boston Baked Beans. They are very different than what we make even in NJ. The beans are al dente, and the sauce is sweetenned with molasses. They are good, though!
We then walked back to Boston Gardens where at my urging, we decided to see if the Swan Boat line was short (it was). The Swan Boat is an amusing tradition where a beleagured collegiate must paddle 25 or so people around the man-made lake. It’s a nice ride with pretty scenery and breezes coming over the water. One of those touristy things that is worth doing if the line is short and the weather is nice.
Finally, we drove home. Traffic wasn’t bad and we made it to Harold’s before closing. We branched out from just corned beef and pastrami. This time I got liverwurst, Mike got roast beef and Mar had turkey. It was all very good. I considered taking pics of the sandwiches at Harold’s but it just doesn’t do them justice. You really cannot comprehend the magnitude of these sandwiches without seeing them in person.
Thanks to Mike and Mary for showing us around!