Last year, on a lark, we went to Boston for NYE. We could crash at Mike’s parents’ and enjoy the festivities. We had so much fun we decided to do it again.
This year we decided to get a hotel room to both to spare Mike’s parents the trouble of having us crash with them (although they are really laid back and seem to genuinely not mind extra guests laying around) and to spare ourselves the hassle of having to catch a train back to the suburbs after the fireworks. Also, we managed to plan far enough ahead this year.
We took off for Boston on Thursday morning (28th). TomTom wanted to take us over the GW Bridge which is a guarantee of heavy traffic. You want to take the Tappan Zee. This cemented a view that has been stewing in my head for awhile: if you have no idea where you are going, GPS is AWESOME. It will get you to your destination. But if you have some idea, it can be annoying because you may want to use it to help with areas you don’t remember well, or its nice to have something to remind you that your exit is 2 miles away after driving mindlessly for 2 hours up the Merritt Parkway. And theoretically for traffic information, even if it doesn’t work all that well.
We had a great deal of trouble going over the Tappan Zee bridge because we had no idea where it is. To search TomTom for an item, you have to first specify a city. This makes sense to an extent - when you’ve got a map of all of the US and Canada, searching for Main Street would probably crash the system. But there should be a way to do a cityless search for reasonably unique names. I’m sure there are very few Tappan Zee Bridges in North America. In case anyone cares, its between Nyack and Tarrytown, NY. Knowing the cities, I was later able to find it as a cross street to I287, but I could never find it by itself. When we got to the hotel, I went in and dropped a favorite on it.
The real lesson here is that you should still do advance route planning before you go. I sat in the car armed with the hotel address and said “Let’s go!” I should have sat down the night before and figured out how to program the route. There is even software that will let you plot a route in Google Earth and then convert it to an itinerary file.
Anyway, the drive was uneventful. We called MikeMike here and there when we weren’t sure we liked what TomTom was saying, and it was somewhat liberating to just drive wherever confident that I can always follow the little arrow to get where I’m going. We always pack a lunch and we stopped at a mall in CT to eat. Mike had the foresight to warn us to have the directions to the hotel ready because for obvious reasons, GPS doesn’t work well inside Big Dig tunnels.
We got to the lovely hotel and dropped off our gear and set out to decide where to get some food. We decided to go to the nearby Black Rose, an Irish-style pub that both Fitzes had been to and were impressed. It was a short walk from the hotel, good because we had an early morning the next day.
Upon arrival we were given a 15 minute wait time, but from start to finish of this very brief transaction, the wait time increased 4 times. By the time we walked away from the hostess, it was 30 minutes. Mike and I ordered some beers and the ladies left to go score some of the elusive Lactaid, almost impossible to find when you need it. Worst part is, I’m not convinced it does anything for X. As soon as they walked out the door (perhaps 2 minutes after being told 30 minutes; the bartender hadn’t even poured our beers yet) our table was ready. Whacky! Food was good…X had shepherd’s pie because Mary suggested a high-iron meal before donating platelets. Of course X mostly ate the mashed potato top and not much of the meat. I had a corned beef sandwich.
We went back to the hotel to get to sleep. I volunteered to shower at night so that there were less people vying for bathroom access. Because of Mike’s status with Hilton, he often gets upgraded rooms if they are available We got bumped to a handicap-accessible room. I have to wonder just what Mike’s “status” is. When they say he’s a special client, they may mean he is a SPECIAL client. Either way, we got the benefit of extra space, and a somewhat confusing dual-handled shower control with a built-in thermometer. A lower handle seemed to be used for turning on the water and setting the temperature, while a higher handle activated the faucet or shower depending on which way you turned it. The thermometer leads to the dangerous practice of seeing how high you can get it to read before you can’t stand it anymore. My volunteering to shower first had the unintended side effect of being able to figure out how to operate the thing without being under a time constraint.
Friday morning was off to the bloodletting platelet donation at Dana Farber. Mary has donated there a number of times and Mike has started as well, and X was also interested. I would be too, but I have this annoying quirk of passing out when someone punches one of my veins, and I felt that it wasn’t the best plan for me. No, its not the sight of blood, and no, its not the amount of blood. I’ve passed out giving a whole unit, I’ve passed out giving a few mL for blood tests. I brought a book to read, but ended up watching the magic machine with utter fascination. It sucks out a small amount of blood and sends it down to a centrifuge where the platelets are extracted and sent to a collection bag. The blood then gets sent back to the donor. You can donate platelets every 48 hours but they limit you to something like 24x per year. Platelets have a shorter lifespan than whole blood, and they can’t be frozen. They are also typeless, and of course they are immensely important to cancer patients who need clotting agents. You can also become registered as a bone marrow donor. So there’s a lot of good deeds coming out of this, and its only a couple hours and seems relatively painless. I can’t do it, so you should for me.
After that we had to go to Newbury Street to pick up a very important hat from Kate Spade. X had espied this hat at home, but fortunately was not willing to pay the absurd $75 price tag (come on, Kate Spade! A purse is one thing, but this is a wooly hat!). She got a gift card for Xmas and, learning that the hat was on clearance for $28, ran out to get it and found it sold out. She actually called the Boston store and reserved one!
So we went and got that. Newbury Street is an interesting neighborhood. Its got a whacky New Hope-ish mix of artsy/hippie types and upscale trendwhore types. I think a few years ago it was more artsy and full of cool boutiques and consignment/overpriced thrift shops. Now its becoming homogenized and a lot of the indie shops are being replaced with trendy mall shops. This may be really cool for some folks, but we live in the shadow of one of America’s largest shopping malls, so a Kate Spade or MAC store doesn’t really impress me much.
There are still a few cool shops, like one that sells old advertising posters. At really high prices. But its neat to look around.
We met a couple of Mike/Mary’s friends at The Other Side café, which is a cool trendy place. They have a nice beer list and a nice tea list. They are vegetarian-friendly, but I was surprised to see no falafel on the menu.
I think we went back to the hotel for a little nap and then went to explore and find some dinner. We went to Harvard Square (N.B. - events may have occurred in a different order - The memory is fuzzy). Don’t know if it was the cold or just that the students were home for winter break, but the whole area was pretty quiet. We walked around a bit before seeking out a place to eat. We found a nice looking restaurant, the name of which escapes me now, where we got some beers and food. I don’t even remember what I ate! Whatever it was, I remember liking it…
In any case, we ate and then went in search of dessert. We had read in a magazine about a café serving really good hot chocolate, so we found it. I actually got some kind of chai, but the hot chocolate was very good and kept us warm as we waited for the T back to town. We hit the sack after that.
Saturday was a big day. We started by going to the Sam Adams Brewery Tour. We didn’t know what to expect. We were told free beer and a free souvenir glass (they ask for a $2 donation which goes to Boston charities), but I’m picturing a 2oz plastic cup and a few sips of beer. We went to the earliest tour possible and did not have time to get breakfast.
We arrived at the brewery in a fairly rundown part of town about 30 min before the tour. A few people milled around the waiting area watching the intro video and looking at the displays. There were probably 30 people by the time the tour kicked off.
It was a decent tour. They gave some history of the brewery itself and the company behind Sam Adams, followed by a bit about the actual beer brewing process and a look at some of the brewing equipment. There was a Homestar sticker on a cabinet!
One interesting tidbit is that this location is no longer used for mass production and is instead more of a “test kitchen” for experimental beers.
Everyone is there for free beer and they know it, so they don’t waste any more time than necessary and after about 30 minutes, we were handed our tasting glasses and seated in the tasting room. The glasses are quite nice - 5oz, real glass, with a Sam Adams logo on one side and one of their tasting steps on the other.
The tour guide handed out pitchers of beer including the standard Boston Lager, the current seasonal Winter Ale, and the Cherry Wheat. We are not ones to complain about free beer, but truth is we’ve all had plenty of these beers before. The tour guide talked about all the different beers they have, and then handed us three of the most common ones. We noticed that there were taps at the bar for Hardcore and “Experimental.” Hardcore is a hard cider made by the same brewery but is not Sam Adams-branded. Its not widely sold. The guide told us that the “Experimental” beer was a boysenberry lambic. This got our attention, and we teamed up with the group next to us to beg and cajole the poor girl for a taste of these beers we never had. She agreed and gave us some of each to share.
Hardcore is pretty good as far as ciders go. I’m not a huge cider fan. Most of them start to wear on my palate before I can finish them. The Hardcore seems less sweet, and less artificial. It tastes more like fermented apple juice and less like an apple-flavored malt beverage. I could probably get into it.
The boysenberry lambic was just awesome. Not too sweet, still tasted like beer, a perfect level of carbonation. We all loved it. The guide told us that it would probably never see the light of day outside the tasting room. Too bad! We tried to tip her for scoring us the extra beer, and she asked that we just put it in the donation bucket instead.
Then we hit the gift shop where you can get all sorts of Sam Adams swag. Its pretty cheap, too. You could get tasting glasses for $3 which I bought for the shotglass club in lieu of the traditional shotglass. They also have an amazingly soft sweatshirt.
Here’s the girls in the tasting room:
By this point we were hungry and a little bit tipsy, so we headed off to the Sunset Grille (or something like that) where they often get voted as having the best Margarita in beantown. Mike and X are not too big on margaritas, so Mary and I split a very large one. We had some Mexican food. I got something with mole (of course).
Despite eating, the addition of margaritas and more beer had us a little tipsy still as we headed off to the nexus of Christian Science. Within the Mary Baker Eddy Library resides one of Boston’s best kept secrets - The Mapparium. Even native Bostonians that we asked had no idea what it was! Now, its only about an hour’s worth of entertainment, but it will only cost you $3.00 and its really cool.
The Mapparium is a giant stained glass globe. And by giant, I mean three stories from pole to pole. And you view it from the inside. There is a bridge running diametrically through about the equator where the viewers stand and peer at the world all around them. The globe is lit from the outside and the stained glass is brilliantly colored. Being a fairly perfect sphere, it has some wild acoustic properties. Think of the whispering chambers in domes and cupolas and magnify that many times.
It was built in the 1930s and the glass panels were designed to be removable so that the globe could be updated as the world changed. But before it was ever updated, it was decided that it had more value as a historic snapshot of the world as it was at that time. Its fascinating to see how much things have changed in just 70 years. They do about a 15-minute light show where they note various points of interest and light up the globe in different ways. It was very cool and definitely something to check out.
I believe at this time we went back to the hotel room for a rest before dinner. We tried very hard to find a place to go candlepin bowling but could only find one venue and it was not in a nice neighborhood. For dinner we decided to go to the heavily Italian North End where we ate at a bistro with some good wine and lots of olives. After dinner we went to Hong Kong to meet up with Mahoney. Mahoney is a friend of X from the college days. We try to meet up whenever we’re in the same geographic area.
Hong Kong is a whacky little Chinese restaurant/bar near Quincy Market. After dark its basically a typical bar except there is a guy that sells teriyaki chicken skewers for $1 and their signature drink is the Scorpion Bowl.
The Scorpion Bowl, which I may have previously mentioned in this blog, is a strong fruity concoction that is cleverly served in a giant noodle bowl. I feel bad for the waitresses that carry them through the crowded space - they are quite heavy. One amusing tidbit is that they won’t sell a Scorpion Bowl to a loner. You have to have a buddy. But over the course of the evening, they won’t limit the number of bowls they sell to your team.
Can you see the Scorpion Bowl in this picture? 
By the time Mahoney arrived with his girlfriend (whose name I sheepishly admit that I can no longer recall) We were 2 deep in bowls and decided to get a third. This seemed like risky business, but we dove in. After finishing we went to find a quieter bar where we could talk more easily. We almost went to a bar that was sporting a $12 cover, but I balked at this - after 3 Scorpion Bowls, I was done drinking and I imagine everyone else would be slowing down. We went to some other bar in or near Faneuil Hall and had a beer or two and chatted for awhile before heading back to the hotel. We let Mahoney know of our party plans and he said he didn’t have any real plans and would meet up with us.
In keeping with tradition, we got some pizza. X actually stayed awake long enough to have some this time. At length we got it together and went to sleep.
Sunday. New Year’s Eve. We slept in since we finally had nowhere to go in the morning, and we had been up late. We must have gotten something to eat, but I don’t remember what or where. X had a hankering for JP Licks ice cream, so we went back to Newbury Street. After getting tasty ice cream, we walked around. In an Army/Navy store, I found a new man-bag. It was only $10. Black leather and it has more pockets than my Axible. It is also missing the omnipresent “rainflap” that so many bags have. I find the flap just makes it harder to get into the bag with one hand, as you have to hold the flap with one hand and dig in the bag with the other. The flap on the Axible also has no pockets of its own. At least flaps with pockets allow you to store a few things for quick access.
I also found a wool houndstooth fedora and a replacement for my bush hat. Many years ago I got an oilskin bush hat at Pocono Whitewater. I wore it for many years and loved how it was water resistant and kept the sun off of my face and neck. It had a chinstrap so I could tie it on in windy conditions, or hang it from my neck when indoors. Over the years, it has become very worn. There are holes in the crown. I have long sought a replacement, but could never find any made of oilskin…only cotton. Well, I didn’t find oilskin, but I may have found the next best thing - this one is made of ripstop nylon sailcloth. Its very nice. Can’t wait for the summer to start wearing it.
We wandered around the Public Gardens and looked at the various ice sculptures that were being finished up and the setups for the bands and other art installations. Then we went back to the hotel to get ready for the festivities.
Last year we were joined by Mary’s cousin Sarah (H or no H? I don’t know) and her husband Roy. They were joining us again and had in fact booked the hotel room adjacent to ours. We were also to be joined by another of Mary’s cousins, Chrissy (again I may have the spelling wrong) and her husband.
Our spacious wheelchair-friendly room was a perfect venue for a pregame party. We ordered some Upper Crust pizzas, had a few drinks, and caught up for a few hours before heading out to the streets. We started off with a stroll past Hong Kong for some Teriyaki Chicken (they will let you poke your head in and buy them without paying the cover) but learned that the cover hadn’t started yet, so we decided to step in and grab a few Scorpion Bowls. It was fairly early and the place was fairly quiet. Sarah seemed to have a knack for making the bowls empty fairly quickly.
There was an odd moment when a bartender was going around standing on a barstool tying up nets with balloons for the “balloon drop” they had advertised as part of their festivities. Its moronic to stand on a barstool to do this. Its absurd to do it in an operational bar. At some point he put his stool very close to where we were. Someone must have bumped his stool, but he basically got down and accused Roy of deliberately kicking the stool. Great way to treat your customers. Maybe Roy really did bump his stool accidentally. Ask him to be careful but really? You should be using a LADDER and you should have done this in the morning before the bar opened. Duh.
After a couple of Scorpion Bowls, it was off to the Red Hat. I think maybe we stopped at one other place briefly but maybe I’m thinking of last year. The Red Hat seems to be a little bit off the beaten path. Last year it was pretty much empty. They had decent drinks and snacks, no cover and we could just hang out as long as we wanted, so we decided to do it again.
This year they tried to spruce it up a little, including a DJ and some party favors. It was still no cover and there were only a few people there who seemed to be friends of the DJ. The DJ was all over the place. When we got there he was playing a lot of fun 80s stuff at a reasonable volume. As the night wore on, he graduated to hip hop and was absolutely blasting it. He ignored repeated requests to turn the music down. Its a small bar and there’s only maybe 20 people there - how loud does the music need to be? Also he seemed oblivious to the fact that no one was dancing to hip hop and people were requesting more common dancey songs. Isn’t the DJ supposed to gauge the crowd?
We were joined eventually by Mahoney, his girlfriend and their friend Laura whose name I recall because I have her e-mail address. Laura is a teacher or a student or perhaps a student teacher? She is living/working/studying in England. X and I have a passing dream of doing the same, so we had a lot to talk about. In fact, I owe her an e-mail. We were also joined by the girl who met us at The Other Side the other day and her husband.
So we hung around, eating, drinking, having a good time. When it came near midnight I tried to round people up for the fireworks. I got a lot of pushback, but eventually got everyone moving on the grounds that we RAN towards the harbor last year and still missed them. I told everyone if they were lame we could skip them next year but we had to do it JUST ONCE! Mahoney and his girls stayed at the bar.
The fireworks were good enough. I wouldn’t feel bad about skipping them next year, but I am glad to have seen them. There were a lot of annoying drunkards in the area that we had to put up with. Shortly after the fireworks a few couples had to take off to catch trains. Those of us staying in the hotel went back to the Red Hat for another couple of drinks and some more dancing. We probably stuck around another hour and then went to the hotel and completely crashed.
The following morning we cleaned up and checked out. It was pouring rain and there was utter bedlam at the valet station. I don’t know if I called early enough to beat the rush, but I was told to wait 1/2 hour and when we got down there it was waiting, although I had to chase down a very harried valet to claim my key and tip him. He had so many people yelling about there car not being ready, he figured I was one of them. We loaded up the car, fired up TomTom, got our bearings, and bolted for Needham. Mike and Mary had parked at Mike’s parents’ house and took the train in, so we took them to get their car.
While there, I picked up sizable TV. Mike’s parents had gotten a big HDTV for Christmas and said we could have their old one. Mike even hauled it home for us. Thanks guys :-). Mike and Mary also had to pick up all their Christmas presents. Then we went for a hearty breakfast at a diner in a converted IHOP. It was funny how little conversion was done. They still had the frosted glass dividers with the flags on them and simply replaced the IHOP logo with their own!
The drive home was uneventful. TomTom got us there A-OK.
Interesting note - this year a Wagamama will be opening at Quincy Market. Wagamama is an English fast food chain where they serve noodles and other Asian stuff. Its ubiquitous in London. X and I ate at one while there and the food and atmosphere were really nice, especially for fast food. Should be interesting to see how it fares in the US. I hope they don’t charge British prices!
We had an awesome time. Now we’ve done Boston New Years twice, its officially a tradition!
And I don’t know what this is a picture of:
Now that I see it on the big screen I realize it’s X going down a slide made of ice