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The Hizzle of T-Fizzle » Blog Archive » Climbing Report #1

Climbing Report #1   


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Not my first time climbing, but my first report.  It was a pretty weak trip to the rock gym.  MrFitz’s boss was in town so he went to dinner with him and it took far longer than he thought…he didn’t get in the door until around 9PM.  He called me around 8:00 and let me know and recommended that I simply boulder until he arrived since it’s possible and easy to boulder solo.

Except for one thing - everyone else.  Before 9PM, there is a youth bouldering team that practices, along with the normal complement of regulars that you see on Monday and Wednesday.  That’s a lot of people, although the problem is not really that there are too many people to climb, it’s that these people bring way too much stuff with them to the bouldering area.  This is annoying enough for me to mention it here, but I have not yet decided if it’s annoying enough for me to ask the gym to try to enforce some sort of rule about it, but here’s what happens:

When I come to climb, all I bring in with me are my boots, my harness and my chalkbag.  If I’m not using my harness, I leave it in the cubby with my jacket, pants and street shoes.  On the occaisions that I bring a change of clothes, I leave that in the cubby, too.  If I use my harness and then switch to bouldering (where a harness isn’t necessary), I put my harness back in the cubby.  I also keep my chalkbag attached to me.  It only weighs a few ounces - it’s not holding me down any.  I bring nothing to the bouldering wall and I take up no real estate when I’m not actually sitting on the bench.

When these other people come to climb, they bring a bag which seems to contain an expeditionary amount of gear - ropes, multiple harnesses, multiple sets of boots, plus a change of clothes, extra chalk, power bars, Red Bull cans, and who knows what else.  The youth climbers often have school books with them, too.  Instead of leaving all of this stuff in a cubby hole, they simply leave it somewhere in or around the climbing area.  They finish top-roping/lead climbing and boulder some and they leave their harness on the bench.  And, for some reason, they always hand-carry their chalkbags and leave them laying around the bench when they get up to climb, often when they have wandered all the way to the other side of the bouldering wall.

The result is that while there seems to be adequate space to accomodate all of the people that are not actually climbing the wall to sit, rest and study the problems, but there is not actually enough space because everyone insists on leaving all of their gear on the benches.

Most people seem to clear out by 9:00, so MrFitz and I usually toprope until 9 and then move to the bouldering wall once the crowd has dissipated.  I loafed around for awhile hoping he would show up earlier, but eventually I decided to squeeze into a spot on the bouldering wall, and managed to make one unsuccessful attempt on an easy problem before MrFitz arrived.

The good news is that there was an ABS contest this past weekend.  I don’t climb competitively, but since ABS contests call for “fresh” problems to be created, we found the bouldering wall stacked up with a lot of new problems to work.  We spent the hour chipping away on one easy problem and one slightly harder one, but since we were limited on time, I didn’t feel like I worked particularly hard.  Wednesday should hopefully be better.

You may be wondering about Urinetown…X happens to have a contact at ‘Nova that she needed to contact for an unrelated reason and learned from this contact that casting announcements won’t be made until 1/25 or 1/26, so I should know more in the next couple of days.

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